Buena Yosemite: Merced Lake and Little Yosemite Valley

Yosemite National Park

DAY 1  |  DAY 2  |  DAY 3  |  DAY 4  |  DAY 5  |  DAY 6  |  DAY 7  |  DAY 8

static map
Blue line for day 6. Click for interactive map

The location of the Merced Lake Ranger Station is deep in a canyon in a thick forest and it wasn't much less dark and dreary in the morning than it was in the last of the light. I know Daniil would have preferred to go that last little bit to Merced Lake the night before. There's only a few little things we would have missed in the last of the twilight.

371: tall trees and stark morning sunlight
Following bridges and trails through the flats above Merced Lake, surrounded by tall trees.

373: rocks as the trees end
Then everything opens up as the rocks take over the bottom of the canyon.

377: short, wide waterfall
Merced River pours into Merced Lake.

We found the High Sierra Camp in its winterized state, and some of that in a bit of disrepair. Apparently these haven't been open since 2018 although 3 of 5 opened briefly last year. The park service needs to do something with water and toilets and is prioritizing other things. The camps served "more than 13,000 visitors" each year, plus those who just stop by for food, but apparently not now. Apparently there's arguments about if they should reopen at all, with tradition (this one was the first, built in 1916) as the argument for and "degraded wilderness experience" as the argument against. Frankly, "degraded wilderness experience" is a ship that has long sailed for this area, as we would find out throughout the day. The High Sierra Camp is a rather unique experience and you only get a spot through a very competitive lottery process. Besides, according to my map, the bit around the camp and its water supply isn't wilderness. At $200 a night per person, surely these things were paying for themselves. There's a backpacker camp right next to it, so it doesn't end up excluding the poor from camping here.

378: cabin in the island of not wilderness
Merced Lake High Sierra Camp was not bustling at all.

379: lake among the granite
Out across the infilling meadow is Merced Lake.

Wandering along the edge of the lake took quite some time. We found a few illegal camping spots along the way.

380: rippling water behind a duck
A mallard makes a wake getting away from us.

381: lake panorama
Beside the large Merced Lake.

382: lake from below a branch
Many spots to take in a different view.

383: grass and trees and water
Sneezeweed waving along the shore.

We met people around the end of the lake. It had been at least 48 hours since we last saw people other than ourselves. There are ways to get a less degraded wilderness experience, specifically having solitude, it just doesn't happen in this spot. Not in August.

385: wide water road with a lake behind
Leaving Merced Lake, but the river is still lake-like.

386: water down the middle of a shallow V
Then the Merced River is more like a water slide.

387: lizard clinging to the side of a rock
Wildlife: a western fence lizard.

I was enjoying the Merced River. I've never seen it here, but it is the character of the Merced River I know from many childhood hikes on the Mist Trail to Vernal Falls and sometimes all the way to Nevada Falls. Apparently I got halfway up the steps to the top of Vernal Falls when I was 3! At a run. It caused all manner of trouble for my parents who had two other children, 3 and 1 year old, to look after too.

389: reflecting water in the shade
Shaded and sunny pools.

390: juniper by the trail and the river
Our trail, cut out of the rock in many places, passes more grand Sierra junipers.

391: wide valley and rounded mountains near
Even without leaving the river far, we get wide views in the oversized glacier carved canyon.

395: maximum wall distance
With the river behind me, the same side of the canyon is still very far away at times.

397: sheeting water hitting a crack
Watching what happens when the sheeting water hits a crack.

398: water sheeting over a few foot drop
Many a little waterfall when the sheeting water hits a drop.

402: rounded, darkened boulders in a pool
A rubble of rounded boulders gather where the valley flattens.

403: suddenly upward rock
Some of the cliffs and the trees that climb them.

404: broken rounds of granite all the way up
Meanwhile, back at the Merced River.

We stopped by a calm pool and watched the trout while snacking. More groups passed by. More people than we had met over the entirety of the first half of the trip passed us somewhere in the vicinity of Echo Valley.

405: pool in granite and sand
The last little bit of the pool where we stopped for snacks.

This trail does not always stay down by the river. Across a bridge, it rises a little while the river drops away, giving a little of those higher views like we had the day before.

407: water with rocks and steps of granite
The river starts to drop away past a few lovely potholes. There's also mortars to be found at the edge of this river, but these aren't those.

408: narrower canyon of granite
Looking down canyon at how Merced River will continue to drop.

411: white flowers on a furry stalk
A thin line of meadow along a stream showed off the whitestem hedgenettle.

414: dome of granite above the river
We have this lovely dome of granite as boulders mark the trail across high granite.

419: long stretch of granite canyon
Peaks in view above the upstream section as we start down once more toward the river.

422: trail and canyon
Down on a trail constructed of well worn rocks.

423: close on a waterfall area
So many waterfalls and cascades.

426: rocky and wider downstream
Getting rocky and wide again downstream.

We stopped at another pool just before a bridge for lunch. The boys went splashing in the water.

427: water over a low shelf that is a higher shelf nearby
Down to the level of Merced River now.

We had a short climb to get onto trail through an exceptionally narrow piece of canyon. Did the glaciers go high through here? Do they squeeze?

430: a little bit of up trail
Canyon narrows.

433: water cascades
The Merced River is still beautiful when we see it.

437: granite cut by water
The very narrow bit. Water carved this.

We had been seeing some evidence of fire in the upper slopes, but it was utterly unmissable when we came in sight of Lost Valley, a small valley just above Little Yosemite Valley. The 2014 Meadow fire was devastating to the trees in both valleys.

442: sheeting water and dead trees
Bunnel Cascade and the devastated trees of Lost Valley in a record breakingly bad panorama construction.

444: throat of a flower
We get mountain blue penstemon blooming in the burned areas.

Admittedly, we can see more of the rock and water features around us without all that pesky greenery around the blackened trunks getting in the way.

446: thin cascading water in the far rocks
A thin stream plunges down a long drop, then over a shorter overhang in the distant rocks.

447: blind arch with trees like arrowheads
Remnant trees accentuate a blind arch.

450: large rounds of granite
Rounding the narrowed section between valleys. Plenty would still be visible if the trees remained.

451: small and perfect dome
Sugarloaf Dome rises as a particularly round thing above the trail.

Little Yosemite Valley was as bad as Lost Valley. Standing black sticks everywhere it was a bit flat.

452: cascade and burned trees
Down another cascade of sheeting water to Little Yosemite Valley.

453: looking at the sheeting water
USGS marks this cascade as a waterfall. OSM names it Cascade Fall.

456: lots of granite domes
A look back at the upper section of Little Yosemite Valley.

457: small bird on a stick
A rock wren stopped nearby long enough for a photo.

Along the way through the valley, we noticed that our trail had once been paved. Accessibility, way out here! We learned from the ranger who checked our permit at camp that it was a road built from Glacier Point. I also noticed a dome familiar from climbing it.

458: dome with a smaller dome beside it
Half Dome presents an unfamiliar profile to most people when seen from Little Yosemite Valley.

459: people on the dome
Zoom in and there's still people going up the cables, or backing down them. Most are along the lower half at this captured moment.

The burn ended shortly before we finished hiking. We'd seen quite a few people by the time we arrived at Little Yosemite Valley Camp. We had passed into areas commonly day hiked from the crowded Yosemite Valley, so camping was limited to certain areas. There were campers everywhere inside the legal boundaries, and one just outside practically on the river. Ahem. They weren't stealth and probably had a long discussion with the ranger later. It did make me happy to find a Sierra Designs Flashlight that looked like the 1990s version, not the current ones, among the mix. Most the tents looked like they'd recently come from the REI showroom floor.

460: brown water, thick
A lazy Merced River passes outside the legal camping area.

462: tall, large tree
Looking up a huge sugar pine that was spared burning with the rest just up the valley.

463: deer nibbling lupine
This pair of mule deer youngsters walking with their mom were not very concerned about all the people.

We found a site at the very edge of the legal boundary, thus reducing our neighbors slightly. We actually had two bear boxes to store away whatever we liked inside. Our packs would be very protected from marauding rodents for the night.

465: squirrel having a spruce cone
A Douglas's squirrel had supper with us.

Continue on to the next day ⇒


*photo album*




©2025 Valerie Norton
Published 12 Dec 2025


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