Hammond Trail

McKinleyville Parks and rights of way

McKinleyville Land Trust

(map link)

All the rain that came through has brought the Mad River to a level not seen at any time last year. Admittedly, it stopped and the water has dropped back down a bit. That has allowed the little creeks started to run clear again. It's prettier when it all runs clear. I decided to go out and visit the river in its long run from getting almost to the coast (near the old railroad bridge) to actually breaking through to the ocean waves over 3 miles to the north. This time I would use the more common path on the McKinleyville side of the river rather than the long sandbar. There's a lot more places one might start such a trip and I've marked all the spots with public parking along the route. I actually started at the aforementioned bridge, the southern terminus of the Hammond Trail.

Feeling a kind of tunnel vision at the southern terminus of Hammond Trail.

The Mad River is still muddy on its way to the sea. This is the turn north along the coast.

The Mad River, upstream. It seems full at the edges but there's a bit of bare river bottom right there.

On the far side of the old railroad bridge, the trail follows an old bit of asphalt road running down the middle of a farm. I found some signs along the fence stating the farm has been purchased by the McKinleyville Community Services District, which happens to be the bit of city government containing Parks and Recreation. Anyone who had agreements with the former owners to go hunting on the land are notified that they no longer have any such permission. That part got a raised eyebrow.

Admittedly, there always seem to be deer here.

A few Canada geese grazing on the other side.

Then the road climbs out of the once farmed tsunami zone to a neighborhood, eventually coming to streets busy enough that they put in a separated path, then path is all there is. The Hammond Trail tends to these oscillating inundations of civilization. Crossing the road, I was in Hiller Park. People seemed to be actually following leash laws, but I had resolved not to go through the park where an unleashed Peanut would have another chance at me. I stayed on the far side of the first parking row and scuttled quickly to the tall berm and tree lined former track on the far side.

The different shapes of the planted pines prior to getting to Hiller Park.

The Sitka spruce along the high old railroad berms after Hiller Park.

Among another batch of houses after a road crossing, the trail makes a diagonal toward the river edge. At first, the low hills hid it. Then the houses hid it. Then the trees hid it. Now I heard a great and constant roar coming out of the sea. The river may be smooth at the top of its torrent of flowing water, but the ocean sure wasn't.

The calm and reflective (but strong) flow of the Mad River and the roaring ocean beyond.

The ocean is actually achieving some barrels in the waves today.

At Murray Road, I turned up to follow the bicycle route. I took my cues from the incredible number of dog walkers and turned too early, walking the private roads that connect to the Hammond Trail in a few ways. It looks like a lovely spot to live, and only $350k to pick up one of the empty lots to try to build on. (Yep, I looked. That ocean roar is nostalgic.)

Trinidad Head over a rough ocean from Sand Pointe Drive.

After turning too early, I could continue south through the rest of the neighborhood to get back to the trail, then loop north again. Or I could drop my way through the pretty little creek where the bikes and horses aren't allowed to go which I would still do on the way back as well. Pretty little creek won.

Looking across the creek when still high up, the route is marked by bare tree tops.

Downstream along Widow White Creek as it flows to the Mad River.

The flood plain is a thick green expanse.

Past the creek, the trail shares with a bit of road again as it comes to the last bit of civilization. This particular bit is fenced fields spotted with horses. I knew the one with space next to the road gets a bit of nefarious feeding before noticing the sign pleading that people not. I showed my hands were empty and gave it a scratch, but it said that's only for people who feed it and grumped off. I shrugged and continued on to the spur trail and a viewpoint in the trees just before the freeway viewpoint.

The Mad River finally takes those last few feet to the ocean.

River, sand, and ocean with 61 seals lounging in the sun beside the calm river water.

The viewpoint has a trail that looks steep but wide and solid at the top. I've always resisted its call since I just know that won't last. This day, I yielded. I mean, look at all that tread. Guess what? I doesn't last. It hits a tree that has slumped downward and then either goes around or drops a surprising 4 feet going over the top. Then it turns more directly toward the river and gradually becomes a deep rut. That's actually a good thing as it reaches a fallen tree and that rut gives room to skootch underneath. There are a couple more crawls under low branches as it flattens out at the bottom and almost looks like it could be a nice trail again. It runs into a lovely little use trail right next to the river that I quite like. That memory and knowing I really want to take it today were the siren call that finally made me give in and try that trail. I was pulling prickles from my hand the rest of the day from grabbing the wrong hold on the way down that trail. Not recommended.

The bottom of a trail suitable for a medium bear and nothing bigger.

But it did put me by the side of the river.

The seals across the river decided I wasn't a threat and stuck around.

Rocks and a beach are pretty much the eastern turn around for the trail beside the Mad River.

Movement among the seals while passing them again.

Curves in the waves at the river mouth.

So I got to the sanctioned connection between low river trails and beach trails and Hammond Trail and made a much more pleasant climb back up than could happen along that scrunching little trail I came down.

The river and its sandspit below Hammond Trail.

So I skipped the viewpoint and passed the horses and went back through the creek that was still a bit sunny and across the river and ocean views at the front of the few houses and numerous empty plots.

Back past the tree lined high berms of once railroad line.

I found my way to the trail around the side of the wastewater treatment that would take me to the Mad River Bluffs. It would never do to miss the bluffs when so close to them. This little McKinleyville Land Trust property has winding, deep green trails with sudden viewpoints and even a few steps down to the water. I didn't take the steps down this time, but stopped at the views.

The ducks love the wastewater ponds next to Hiller Park.

The river from one of the routes down to it.

A little of the deep green trail.

The trails closest to the river on the Mad River Bluffs will try to produce a feeling of claustrophobia sometimes.

Then I was once more among houses, but this time without a sanctioned trail. There are no sidewalks in this neighborhood, but plenty of walkers still. I was determined to try out some more river trails out the side of some concrete barriers at the far corner, so wandered along keeping as close to the river as I could.

Back in view of the old railroad bridge on the Hammond Trail over the Mad River.

I didn't find the concrete barriers I was expecting. I found a shinny new park instead. It has a lovely turn of ADA accessible trail out to a pair of lookouts on the river and a gravel trail leading back along the edge and a CCC crew working at ecosystem restoration so the little salmon will have more space to grow. I did a short way along the trail, but didn't go far beyond the end of the gravel.

Restoration work at the end of the graveled trail.

The river and dunes of the sandspit from one of the viewpoints.

That was a happy discovery. Soon the little hikes of the area will even be sanctioned. I turned and followed the path along School Road back to Hammond Trail, back to the bridge, back to the car. The deer were still hiding among the grasses in the field.

Down to the flats and the tsunami hazard zone once more.

In looking up the park, I found there's a bit more of it to come. They're actively working on it! I also found McKinleyville is currently sorting out the details of the purchase of their own community forest. Good things are coming to McKinleyville.


*Humboldt album*




©2023 Valerie Norton
Written 29 Jan 2023