San Rafael: Upper Sisquoc

Los Padres National Forest


DAY 1  |  DAY 2  |  DAY 3  |  DAY 4  |  DAY 5  |  DAY 6


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The night was not so bad as I feared it would be. There was a lot of room for it to be worse. As unprepared as I felt I was, I was mostly comfortable to be honest. There are ultralighters who probably think that means I have excessive gear. The wind could have easily challenged my setup and won during the night, but it stayed a breeze. We do not listen to that sort of person. While the emergency blanket probably kept in more moisture than it blocked, it also kept the wind from stealing my warmth. To show me just how bad having that warmth stolen is, my Platypus bags have a half inch shell of ice around the sides and my drinking tube is frozen quite solid. The first time I left it overnight in significantly freezing temperatures, I had the good sense to empty it first. For some reason I have not been able to remember to do so since then. The gloom and cold and threat of weather has not changed, so I experiment with just how much I can do still tightly tucked under my quilt. The pot lid is frozen onto my uneaten supper, so I put it on the stove and give it enough fuel to cook it (under usual circumstances) before nibbling at it again. My stomach accepts about 2/3 before getting a bit gurgly. The cooled remnants get stored away in the pudding container followed by the realization that I might have had some pudding first. Having a now clean pan means I can drink down some hot, sugary liquid instead.

Now I have to decide if I really want to go up those mountains. I deeply suspect that it will be a visually stunning and cold day (followed by some more cloudy and wet as oscillation seems to be the established pattern of weather this year and the system will last until Friday) but very very cold. I just do not have the right gear for thrashing through the bush up Samon Peak in a cold wind. This really drives home the abuses I casually expect my rain or wind gear to go through. Instead, I could just head up and around missing the peaks. On the third hand, I could continue along the way I am going down to South Fork, which happens to be a descent day travel away and still have the old guard station. Ultimately, I decide to just go low and a little shorter miles. There are some aches and pains that are not vanishing with the evening rest the way I expect. The old cabin and original plan wins although I would have parked by NIRA if it was the plan when I started. I will just have to climb up Big Cone Spruce and down the road tomorrow. Decided, I put away my gear being careful with the emergency blanket that is likely to be needed again.

overcast and burned trees
Dreary under the overcast sky and in the burn of the Zaca Fire. There are spots that are not quite so bad as this.

There are lots of logs to step over, ceanothus to wander through, and ribbons to make sure I know which opening to aim for. Coming to Bear Camp, AKA Lower Bear Camp, it looks like a death trap with the standing dead trees but it has a table. I am jealous.

cut log and another fallen
Logs, cut and to cut and ceanothus to scramble through. The thorny bush is not encroaching too much.

There is a little more burned meadow to deal with before the canyon changes character into a tight and steep, earthy and rocky canyon. Gradually, there starts to be waterfalls. The trail along the slopes is thin and scary at times. Meanwhile, that frozen water tube is still frozen and I am getting a little bit thirsty. But waterfalls! Getting a look at them is a bit of a challenge, but they are there.

thin trail along a steep dirt slope
A thin trail along a steep slope where the oaks tilt out just a bit. Below, the water is still not dancing. It is just getting to where it can be noticed.

water down a nearly vertical slab
Dead oak branches trying to obscure the waterfall below.

not so burned canyon
Less burn visible in this look down the canyon.

There are so many waterfalls that I almost miss a larger one below while trying to figure out the best view of one above at one point. I expect a little more trails scampering down to try to get a better look, but maybe that is just a testament to the steepness of these canyon walls.

cascade over thick rock layers
This waterfall will be hidden once the tree in front leafs out a little more.

cedar upward and water downward
Cedars fall upward? Another partly hidden waterfall.

I find myself out on a thin wedge of land as a second creek, at least as big as the new river I am following, comes in from the left. The trail hugs the wedge as it makes its way down to the confluence and Lower Bear Camp, AKA Falls Camp. The last of the waterfalls is just above the camp and even this one is hard to find a good view point for. Below it, there are still lots of trees down although the fire scar is not so extreme. There are even a few jungle gyms and crawl unders. The crawl space next to the creek is, um, interesting. I pull a few small ones off the trail just because. One of them is even developing a walk around trail. People must be putting all their energy into hiking through here. Gradually, it clears off as expected. Just above where I camped, there is rather visual evidence of how cold it is. The pines are flocked with ice.

ice encased trees
Looking back to some ice encased trees. Admittedly, I am still in my puffy pants and my water hose still will not allow a drink.

I stop suddenly just before yet another creek crossing where there is a stick freshly leafing out. Poison oak. The first I have seen coming down. The GPS puts my elevation at 4100 feet, maybe a little higher than I would expect. Whatever, it is time to start watching out for the stuff. There are nicer things too. Once clearing looks to be densely popping forth with the leaves of some kind of lily. I am certainly moving down into spring.

many bioms in one picture
From the creek to the ridges above showing a lot of the different vegetative types along the way.

still ice topped/encrusted trees
Nearing noon and looking back to Big Pine Mountain to see the mountain tops are still icy. I can finally sort of get a drink.

canyon before me
Ahead looks nice except it is still scared by the Zaca Fire.

purple flower stalks
A woody lupine bush has a few flowers one it.

I arrive at Heath Camp at the junction with Judell Canyon to find there is a fire burning. Except for little bits of trash and a puddle of horse piss, some fresh road apples, the site is quite clean, but there are two big logs hanging over the side of the fire ring and flaming away. The creek is 100 feet away and someone could not be bothered to haul water all the way up here and put this out? It takes moment to realize that I do have a bucket of sorts to deal with this and drop my pack to extract the dirty water bag. Water poured over the large logs never quite seems to put them out. There is always a bit of a crackle from deep within the cracks that shelter the fire. There is so much heat left in the coals, I wonder if they even tried to put this out. I finally give up at getting the big logs out and resort to taking them to the creek where they join a third log that is suspiciously half burned. As it is getting toward lunch and my pack is already down and open, I finish off my supper and then mix up my missed breakfast before continuing on.

fire already provided
A flaming hot fire pit at Heath Camp that needs some attention.

Sisquoc River
It is nice to come down and really see how the Sisquoc River has grown, though.

There are still a few downed trees as I continue on toward South Fork. The trail should become familiar once I get to Rattlesnake Falls, which I visited on a spur once. Things actually seem familiar a little earlier as I approach one part of the unsigned Cottonwood Camp. The fire ring has been turned into a table. There is a second site across the creek also without a sign. The canyons do have signs as though there are trails. Should I visit the falls again? It is a short way off the main trail. Of course I should visit. The horses before me also came up nearly to the pool.

prickly phlox
The prickly phlox seems longer it petal this year, maybe.

water flowing over a short drop
Flow over a step below the falls.

Rattlesnake Falls
Looking across the poison oak to Rattlesnake Falls.

Past the waterfall, it is definitely familiar territory. I do not remember any stream crossings, but I suspect that only means I kept my feet dry. There are certainly plenty of crossings now and they all seem familiar as I come to them. Sometimes requiring slight creativity, they are all dry foot crossings, too.

water flowing over smooth rocks and pooling below
A bit of a pool below one crossing.

into the sun
Looking into the afternoon sun in roughly the San Rafael Mountain direction.

large seed pods with a few red petals
California peonies doing their thing, which is flowering briefly while already turning into a set of large pods.

After a section hugging the river and crossing it at any excuse, the trail swings out high for a look at flats across the way. It is getting late, but my map promises me that there is one more crossing and then the station.

point behind a much smaller point
A little samon rock in front of Samon Peak. There are some views up there now. It really did turn out to be a nice day.

The first gate is open, but the second is latched. Someone changed out the wires on the gates since I cut myself on the barbs. They seem a little easier to latch again, too. The stock is here and quite friendly. They think I might have treats. One camper up from the trail work a little further down river and the folks to go with the stock mean it is positively crowded. Five people all in one big camp. There is one spot left in the cabin, so I can have that.

one cabin and my abandoned pack
My abandoned pack beside the old guard station.

Oh, and we chat about fires. And when a big log goes on that will not finish for more than a day, we chat about fires again. "Was it really flaming?" As though I go around sticking my hand in every fire ring just to see if there might be a little heat there. Yes, it was really flaming. Two big logs with flame lapping around them. Seriously, those who make fires frequently seem to have a very lax approach to it borne of nothing bad happening. Yet. The thing is, usually nothing bad does happen. Campfires getting away is a rare event, there are just so many camp fires that this rare event happens many times each year. You have to stay vigilant in order to avoid becoming that guy who burned down the forest. Most times, folks are just lucky and they do not even understand that it has only been luck.

Continue on to the next day ⇒




©2018 Valerie Norton
Posted 25 Apr 2018

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Comments

Valerie Norton said…
Dan, the volunteer, was out to survey all those trees I hoped over, under, and through on my way down. For quick turn around, it was put up for a project already. They are going out this weekend to cut them out! Check out LPFA here for information. They go out tomorrow and Friday.

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