Moments in Dirt and Ink

Uncompahgre National Forest (map link) The Forest Service seems to be uncertain if it is Lake Hope or Hope Lake, but more certain that it is the Hope Lake Trail. It consistently marks the road up to the trailhead as a 4x4 road, so I parked in a turnout at the bottom and started up, getting increasingly grumpy about how it is a rather good road with a loose rock here or there. I chatted with some campers about how it was probably great all the way up, but they'd gotten to their rather brilliantly picturesque site and been sufficiently mesmerized by it not to continue on. Talking with them got me sufficiently emboldened to actually stick out my thumb at the truck that came by as I finished the chat. When you're going 5 MPH anyway, it's easy to stop, and he did. Greg was going for the hike too and actually wouldn't mind having a buddy. The road promptly turned to something it wouldn't be wise to try the Scion on. With good judgement, I probably could make it, but...

San Juan National Forest Uncompahgre National Forest (map link) I had thought a bit about hiking up Sheep Mountain, checking it out as I hiked across Black Face and along the bottom of Lizard Head. With the sniff of signal at the top, I'd downloaded what Peakbagger could tell me about it. One person stated that they had found an old trail through the forest, but it wasn't going to where I wanted to approach the top, so I decided not to follow that track. I might have had a hiking partner for this, but when many days of rain were promised by the weather machine, we both ran for somewhere that wouldn't get quite so muddy and slick. He had scouted a route through the forest and reported that there was a lot of downed trees. That's not surprising considering how many standing dead trees you can see in this forest. With things dryer (but not dry), I decided to return and get something out of the effort of thought already expended. I headed out from the corral from muc...

Uncompahgre District BLM (map link) The hiking options along this section of the San Miguel Canyon are few. This is a place for intermediate river rafting, and indeed I saw quite a few do so. Caddis Flats is a regular spot to put in or take out for one of the local river rafting companies. (It is also one of four free camping areas where one may stay for up to 7 continuous days in a 30 day period.) This morning, I had even seen a couple of whitewater stand up paddleboarders pumping up their boards in preparation for the day's ride. Since I have one of these things (but not with me as I don't have the space for it), I chatted with them. They said the boards were whitewater rated, which I suppose means that this is a thing. They might be early adopters, but not pioneers. Meanwhile, I had trails to think about. At first, it looked like there was an old mining road a few miles up Leopard Creek and nothing else. Peakbaggers had done excursions to the high point of the loomin...

Uncompahgre National Forest San Juan National Forest (map link) I don't know why, but yes, it is really called that. It doesn't call itself that, so I'm not holding it against it. The sign at the trailhead suggests this is a popular loop with the Cross Mountain Trail and, if you can't get together a shuttle, about 2.3 miles of highway. Ugh. But that's what I set out on, with a plan to divert over to the pass above Bilk Creek to check out that distinct view that is rather close to the trail. The weather, so far as I knew, had a slight chance of thunder storm all day. There's trees up there, so I decided to risk it. I walked over from my dispersed camp at the corral across the highway (a large area set up for the purpose) to the trailhead to start the loop. The weather, so far as I knew, had a slight chance of thunder storm all day. Lizard Head Pass from the trailhead. The sign below marks the boundary between San Juan and Uncompahgre National Forest. Th...

Uncompahgre National Forest (location) You can find out a little bit about the train that once moved gold and goods and passengers through this area at the Lizard Head Interpretive Site right at the top of the pass. Across from that is the trailhead for one of the segments of "single and double track" trail that follow the route of the tracks, now long gone. One thing that does remain is the trestle over Lake Fork. (A fork of the San Miguel River.) I walked over and had a look at it. Even on the trestle, the tracks are long gone. The trestle from the side. Another view of the trestle, from above the road crossing the river. The coming of Lake Fork on the other side of the road. ©2022 Valerie Norton Written 6 Jul 2022

San Juan National Forest (map link) As I was wandering and looking about near my campsite, as one does when one is in a beautiful place, I spotted a huge waterfall in the distance. Do you see it just above the trees at the arrow? Waterfall! I pondered the maps and the landscape and decided that this waterfall might be somewhat near a trail and that trail was the one up to Navajo Lake. There was a second one near the trail. Both seemed to face a bit to the west, so I made a plan to start at that trailhead, take the Groundhog Stock Driveway and Kilpacker Trail up for the variety, then pass by those waterfalls coming down when the sun would also be somewhat to the west. Signs, trail register, and even a bench at the Navajo Lake Trailhead. The trail splits almost immediately with the Groundhog Stock Driveway (Groundhog Trail) climbing off to the right through meadow and aspens. One of the things my informant at the Priest Gulch Trailhead mentioned was that only trails getti...

San Juan National Forest (map link) DAY 1  |  DAY 2 I woke up to a sky that I was certain contained a whole lot of smoke. I could, yes, definitely smell it too. It arose so quickly and I could feel panic following along. But around me, it was so evenly dispersed, and, if I'm honest, it was doing some downright lovely things marking out the air currents high over the local 14ers grouping. The world is a wind tunnel with smoke indicators when wildfires burn. Dolores and company to the left, Mount Wilson and company to the right. (Click to embiggen.) So, by my best guess, the wildfire could not be near, no matter how fresh that smoke was smelling. I had good signal when I could see Rico and mediocre signal on that side of the ridge otherwise and something that wouldn't let me connect on the other side, so I found a tree to hide behind from the wind and tried to be sure. Caltopo's active fire and satellite detection layers indicated no big fires until I got all th...

San Juan National Forest (map link) DAY 1  |  DAY 2 Okay, new backpacking plan. Since I had already done the section of Calico National Recreation Trail from the Calico Trailhead to the far side of Elliot Mountain, I decided to approach it via the West Fall Creek Trail instead. First day would be climb and follow the loop of trail over Sockrider Peak and Calico NRT back. There should be a rivulet of water just before the climb back up to the ridge. If that didn't work out, I would know how far down West Fall Creek I needed to go to get the all important stuff. Next day, lots of named peaks to be bagged, then back down. Some variations were possible in the second day, but in general, sorted. There's a bit of a turnout for parking and that's all at the trailhead. A sign marks the start of West Fall Creek Trail No. 640. The trail is well established and easy to follow. Numerous spring flowers can be found among the trees. ( Pretty Jacob's ladder .) The ...

San Juan National Forest (map link) I was collecting things together to backpack a small loop on the Calico National Recreation Trail from the Priest Gulch Trailhead when a pair of backpackers just finished with through hiking the 19 miles popped up. The usual hiker greetings are important, for they give the opportunity to then gain information. In this case, this spring on the map, is it any good? If it is good, there is an excellent opportunity to grab a few peaks. As it turns out, they had searched out that spring and creative water gathering was required because they did not find it. Almost all of the water to be found on the ridge was snow. I am not a fan of this particular water source, personally. Third worst water ever. Anyway, if I'm looking for views and possible peak bagging, I should be at the other end. This loop will be entirely in forest. Yes, even the ridgeline that Calico follows. I could follow them there, if I liked. So I took this advice, although I'm ...

San Juan National Forest (map link) After too long spent in the desert, Rio Lado looked like it would be a good trail for basking in the wonder that is flowing water. The map promised no views, but a couple miles along the stream and then a big loop at the top. I estimated that the whole thing would be about 5 miles, so not very long. I made an easy start of it to give the sun a chance to get high and filter through the trees. The trailhead is a rocky spur with a tiny sign off the side of a road and I actually parked in a turnout just past it. The trail follows the old road prism which most decidedly does not take vehicles now. It does seem to see a lot of horses, which park below just past the bridge and walk up cutting the switchback. Rio Lado has been mysteriously tamed near the trailhead, giving this waterfall. I got going up the trail. There is a spot of private property crossed early on, but beside a couple "Forest Service land behind this sign" markers and a...

San Juan National Forest (map link) I missed Narraguinnep Fort because I had some thought that there would be a turnout along the road past the intersection, but the intersection is the optimal place to stop. A road continues to the fort if you want to deal with the gate and can handle sufficiently rough road. It really isn't far to the walk instead. I pulled over where the road was wide and I was sure I could get out again and made my way down. At this intersection of improved gravel roads, the two dirt tracks lead off to the fort. As above, there were lots of flowers. I immediately found many, some of which I hadn't seen yet in the day's walks. It's a different elevation and a different environment. A short penstemon makes small spots of blue. Irises grow enthusiastically where it is wet, particularly by the stream. A closer look at the irises, which are actually quite small, only a few inches across. Now there is only a sign marking the fort. Th...