Hikshari' Trail extension and Eureka Marsh

Eureka City Parks

(map link)

With a second day of sunshine, I decided to check out the trail extension along what will, one day, be a complete Humboldt Bay Trail. This bit has been referred to as the Hikshari' Trail extension or the Bay Trail extension. It's a piece of the Great Redwood Trail where the California Coast Trail follows along. Specifically, it is a mile of paved multiuse trail running between the breaking waves coming in through the bay opening and restored salt marsh. Since it is only a mile of trail, I planned on seeing a bit more and actually started at some parking at the Bayshore Mall for the Eureka Waterfront Trail. There's supposed to be trail parking somewhere around the mall, and I believe I saw it marked once near the oil pier at the other end of the long line of unused spaces where I parked. I got a spot next to a short gravel connecting trail and turned south toward the extension.

This is paved multiuse trail with occasional rest points and educational signage.

This was cheap industrial land once and I started near some of the most abused where dumped concrete remains.

The Coast Guard came by, probably in the midst of some lifesaving exercises with a basket. They made a couple more runs.

Old and current piers. The far one is still used and highly protected by Homeland Security.

Rounding Chevron's pier and operations, one comes upon the Elk River, once known as Hikshari' and giving the next section of trail its name. I thought that would be a hard name to recall, but I seem to do it now in connection with the trail, so I guess it's not too hard. And no one would miss one less "Elk River" if we just reverted to calling it Hikshari'.

Arriving at the Hikshari' River, in a tidal zone with the tide a bit high. The posts once supported a pipeline.

Just like the Baduwa't River (whose name doesn't feel hard to remember, there's really no pattern to what is or isn't), the Hikshari' travels a long distance north along the shore, separated from the bay by a long sand spit. It used to grow and shrink over the years, but has been extra stable over the last many decades due to both the invasive grasses claiming its sands and the permanent breach dug through the sand spit that defines Humboldt Bay.

Looking across the sand spit of the river to the far Table Bluff and the sand spit of the bay from a short spur of dirt waymarked trail.

A family of American wigeons floats by.

Another look at the sand spits that split off river, bay, and ocean.

There's a spot where the long-billed curlew hang at high tide, at least until someone disturbs them. They didn't worry when I passed, but someone later set them off.

There's an extra gravel loop of trail when the paved trail separates a little more from the nearby city and enters the Elk River Wildlife Sanctuary. That gravel gets close to the water and I followed it on the south going pass.

The willows have barely leafed, but already getting to seed.

Gravel trail nearer the water.

A minor field of tiny Johnytuck right along the edge of the path.

A little more trail beside the river.

Around a corner and across a small bridge, the old trail continues on to a road that continues on to the Elk River Park and Ride. But that's not where I was going. Just past that little bridge was all new trail extending south, looking like it's always been there. It was a little different when I came in 2021.

Wasn't this a thick crop of invasive anise before? The old dirt path on the other side of the tracks is still there, too.

To the right are the old tracks and to the left are wetlands. On the north side of the river, they look much as they did before. Some restoration work (levee removal, for instance) was done on the far side and they'll need a little more time to shape themselves and grow into salt marshes.

Some cackling geese foraging in the flooded fields that are the northern salt marsh area.

To bridge the Hikshari' River, the trail just climbs up and uses the old railroad bridge. I'm not sure why it doesn't replace the tracks all the way, but there's a history of someone somewhere making noises that they could totally have an excursion train out on those tracks. For extra romance/unworkability, the steam engines at the fort should be pulling it. They're in better repair than the more modern engines in the train yard.

The long bridge over Hikshari' River, now with more secure side rails and a smoother surface.

After the bridge, things split again. Once to the far side of the sand spit, the old track bed is exposed to the might and fury of the open ocean, tempered a little by having to squeeze through the bay opening. Here, the offset works to protect the trail. I'm a little surprised the tracks weren't removed as a safety measure.

The trail is raised up parallel to the protecting breakwater of the old track bed.

New rest points and educational signs.

No mention about the former railroad and its floating tracks and interesting sea wall objects on those signs.

It's interesting to see the iron turning into thick rust layers.

The salt marsh has a little growing in to do.

Abruptly, the trail just gives up, turns left, and ends at a shinny new parking lot. If one wants to continue on the Great Redwood Trail (or the hoped eventual path of the Humboldt Bay Trail), one must cross over the dip and struggle along the sometimes overgrown tracks once more.

The route to continue looks like it is getting some discouragement.

The marsh looks a lot greener from the south end.

I was tempted to head along further and keep on the edge to the public beach at King Salmon. The right of way for the Great Redwood Trail following the train tracks actually stays inland there, but people do go along the edge. I crossed over for a view of the waves, which was missing from the sheltered trail, but did not continue.

South to King Salmon from up on the breakwater meant to protect the tracks.

Just little waves lapping at the breakwater and jetties to the north.

A little sea life below, including a strange ring of mussels filled with gooseneck barnacles.

So after listening to a little water washing the rocks, I headed back along this new trail.

There seemed to be more ducks and such about on the way back. Here's some green-winged teals.

But I didn't go directly back. I decided to head out onto the sand spit and took the major path over the tracks to the beach on the far side. The sand spit is also part of the City of Eureka's Elk River Wildlife Sanctuary.

The beach on the Humboldt Bay side of the sand spit directing Hikshari' River north.

A lone marbled godwit was stalking the sands for prey.

A ruined pier and the illusion the sand spit goes all the way to the trees on the far side of the bay.

I wasn't really looking to head off to the end of the sand spit. I've done that before and there's well established interior trail all the way. Keeping to the well established trail does help protect the rare flowers that live here. I found a trail up from the beach to connect to that interior trail and head back.

The well established interior trail through the graver threat to the rare plants: European beach grass.

Rare flowers in the sand. The Menzies' wallflowers are blooming now and the beach tidytips (nondescript leaves at the upper left) should be in April.

Rather less rare red maids.

Back to the old railroad bridge with the new trail.

Following the less steep path back up to the trail, I headed for the Eureka Marsh, dallying a bit on the bridge first.

Western grebe came by, one having a bit of a stretch while paddling.

Hikshari' River is a whole different place with the tide gone out.

Birds in the estuary. There's a great blue heron, snowy egret, and greater yellowlegs on their stilts and probably more green-winged teals swimming away.

Pretty little three-cornered garlic, non-native, somewhat invasive.

The cats were out for the afternoon! They were all good cats on their little leashes, not like most those dogs. One was on the trail and one stopped for a picnic.

The receding tide leaves just the core of the river as it flows past those same old pipeline supports that were all in water before.

Back to Chevron's pier.

Nearly back to where I started.

But I wasn't done yet. I wanted to wander the marsh and stop by the fishing pier at the end of Del Norte Street.

A cormorant dries its wings.

The coots were swimming so close, you can sort of see their toes! Coots are not ducks and have flaps on their toes rather than webbed feet.

That's the mall across the small pond the coots were in.

Something's going on at the old pulp mill (which is now "Redwood Marine Terminal Berth 2"), seen across the mud flats and fishing pier.

At the pier, you can see different abandoned tracks, at least for now. The bay is working away at them a little each day.

Abandoned tracks that crossed the shallows of the bay.

Del Norte Street Fishing Pier with just one fisherman at the end.

Most of the track stuff has gone from the south side of the pier.

There was a pair heading down to the mud to look at the things squirting water. There are things that do that. Jets of water popped up a couple feet here and there. I think they're just the oysters. There's a lot of oysters to go after when the mud flats are exposed. I thought about wandering the little trail in the park, but it's in the fenced off dog park area. Probably the nicest dog park in the city! I was once again heading back to the car instead. I took the gravel interpretive trail as far as it goes, rather than the multipurpose path.

Some of the Eureka Marsh (once known as PALCO Marsh, but names change) topped with some of Eureka's old homes.

I didn't see many birds, but there were more Canada geese and green winged teals.

The expected weather for overnight had come in at the end, so I was ready to finish when I arrived again at the car.

*photo album*




©2024 Valerie Norton
Written 16 Mar 2024