Elk River Sandspit

Elk River City Wildlife Area



Click for map.


I will get to the Waterfront Trail eventually, but the spit of land by the Elk River got my desire for this afternoon. It is quite the curiosity to me. I have been known to wonder why the rivers generally love chugging north along the coast befire finally breaking out into the ocean. I saw one sign (was it at the Mad River Bluffs?) with an explanation for why the rivers do this, but I'm not sure it applies to a river that exits into the bay. Anyway, I didn't believe it completely. I wasn't entirely sure how you get out there, but there was a geocache on it and it suggested starting at the (former) park and ride. I knew where that was, so I parked and got out and found myself on the wrong side of the river.

flat grass covered area with cuts from little water courses
Looking out from the raised area of the parking over the grassy flats to water and then some trees that look suspiciously like the ones on the North Jetty.


I followed a sign claiming there was bike trail in the southerly direction, but I'm certain it wasn't going where I thought I should. The only thing going that way is the freeway entrance. I looked a little more closely and found what might be the answer, so tried in the direction of the Waterfront Trail instead. Everyone else was going to and from that way anyway. No signs point out the trail, but it is the only reasonable way to walk from that point. After a quarter mile there is a large sign with lots of information, but none on getting to the sand spit.

water channel through the salt marsh
One of many water channels through the salt marsh.


A little further, just short of a sharp turn in the trail, I encountered what had caught my eye on the map: the old rails. The crossing is still marked and the iron almost looks usable, but no trains have been along them for a long time. I can find it marked as a future trail on official web sites, but it is a well used current trail for any who take the time to look. I turned down it, happy to leave the paving behind.

overgrown train tracks
Train tracks become local trails around here. Either side or down the middle all are well used.

wooden wall built in the grasses
A mystery wooden wall extends from near the tracks to the Elk River.


The railroad bridge over the river looks to be in excellent shape and may even have been improved for pedestrians. Maybe not. There are excellent walking surfaces across it anyway. Well used trails on the far side lead down onto the sand spit, so I followed one past a fisherman and other hikers.

sandy trails between grasses
A pair of trails that make their way along the sand spit.

railroad bridge across the Elk River
The railroad bridge across the Elk River looks pretty solid. Below, there are old pilings from a lesser bridge.


In short order, I found myself on the opposite side of the sand spit, staring out onto Humboldt Bay. Tiny waves were lapping at the sand and one of the fog horns on a jetty was tooting away.

waves only a few inches high crashing onto the beach
Looking out onto the bay and the North Jetty.


I turned right and started walking along the beach out to the end of the spit. I quickly encountered some more wooden wall. Maybe it was part of trying to push the river out into the bay more quickly? If it was, it certainly didn't last.

beach of a certain size curving around Humboldt Bay
The beach along the Humboldt Bay side of the sand spit with a bit of mystery wall cutting through it. The trees are on the far side of the bay.

grasses, a little river, more flats, and eventually some actual high land
Looking back across the spit, river, flats to the city.

rocks in the sand
The waters put together some of the best rock collections.


As I neared the end, there started to be some man made items out on the beach. They all seem to be historical artifacts no longer part of any operation. I found myself getting really close to the land on the far side of the bay. I was surprised to find that so close to the south end of Eureka, the far side of the bay is nearly Samoa. The various tufts of planted trees are easy to dismiss as could be anything, but the old Coast Guard station is hard to dismiss. I was actually approaching the narrow bit between Humboldt Bay and Arcata Bay.

pipe resembling a chimney
This vertical pipe sits along a line of much smaller pipes that crossed the river and spit and go out into the bay.

raised areas of sand showing only wind blown ripples while lower areas are full of footprints
The sand hold curious patterns. Footsteps remain in the low places, but the high places are building ripples.

grasses and some brush
Taking a moment to look inland on the sand spit because there is a small, thick patch of trees. Trail went right past it, so I figured I'd end up visiting it on the way back.

channel with channel markers
Approaching the channel. The far side of the bay is right there.

random bundles of logs poking out of the sand
More wooden remains that mark the very end of the sand spit.

sea lion on a green bouy
I expect the channel marker with a sea lion on it still works.


As I rounded the top of the sand spit, I found myself sinking an couple inches into the sand with each step. As I got to water that could be said to be part of the mouth of the Elk River, there were more birds working away at the beaches. Someone was digging clams on the far side although there was a warning about shellfish at the start of the trail.

black, smooth beach
The beach seems darker at the end of the sand spit.

marbled brown birds in the water
Some godwits poke around where there are still a few waves.

godwits, one with something to eat, and a curlew
There are a few curlew too. It is distinctly larger and the beak curves slightly downward instead of upward.

beach with deep footprints
People sink in deeply when walking the beach beside the river. The supports are where pipe went from the other side of the river to the tall pipe on the other side of the spit.

ducks spinning in the sky
The sound of honking above was ducks rather than geese.


I turned inland, accidentally avoiding a bit of sand spit that the river has flowed into. It has a sort of bay. I wandered a little before setting off on a bit of trail toward the bunch of trees I had seen earlier.

water standing in the spit area
To follow the "beach" along the side of Elk River is to have places to wade.

shallow water ringed by trees
The trees are a ring around a shallow pond.

birds on mud flats
Another curlew among the even smaller sanderlings.


There's actually a couple trails down the middle of the sand spit and I followed each in turn. The one closer to the river sometimes gets out next to it. The one closer to the bay tends to be higher, so there's a foot or two worth of greater view.

trail through the grass
The trail is quite distinct and wide. It narrows toward the end.

curve of the river
The trail comes to the river edge at a big curve.

duck with a wake
One duck on the river with a long wake.


When I got back to the tracks, I still had a little time, so I followed them a little further. This, too, is sufficiently used that I encountered people coming the other direction.

ranching land
Here, the tracks pass along the edge of a ranch. The cows just have to deal with it being somewhat flooded.

red glow in the sky
Just a little past sunset.

twisted tracks beside a sea wall
The tracks are looking rather poorly as they pass beside a sea wall that has not kept out the worst of the waves out to rearrange the coast.


It was a little more than a mile further to King Salmon when I turned around. The tracks go all the way, but I'm not sure how open the vegetation around them is. It seems likely one can go all the way. Most of it is along sea wall like the twisted section shown above.

sand covered tracks
Sand covered tracks make easy walking.


I turned back toward the old Park and Ride when I got to the paves Waterfront Trail once again. It was a rather easy walk, even with all the sand, in an odd space. A well spent afternoon, I think.




©2020 Valerie Norton
Written 26 Dec 2020


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